Russia bombed the place serving the praised Mariupol version of Ukrainian borscht in a cabbage head
What STONE used to be like
Restobar STONE was founded by two families four years ago, and, at that moment, it was their first joint establishment. Later, they also co-founded two Georgian restaurants and one pastry shop.
The place was called STONE due to the literal English meaning of the word, as the interior was just that: concrete walls, windows, stone, and brass. Those elements worked well together, being completely in line with the establishment’s core values of being eco-friendly and high-quality.
The restaurant had a great selection of entrées, hot dishes, desserts, and cocktails. The place perfectly combined the two worlds, the kitchen, and the bar. According to Vladyslav Shorokhov, the former manager, concept designer serving had always been their signature feature.
“We were proud to work with Serhiy Baisarevych, one of Ukraine’s best chefs. That incredibly talented professional had been our brand’s chef who always put together our seasonal menus, and paid us regular visits, teaching STONE’s chefs and sharing his precious knowledge and skills. Besides, we hosted workshops held by visiting bartenders from Kyiv.”
The resto-bar had hosted a series of themed events and fests, celebrating Halloween, the Pre-Lenten Festival, and Christmas. The place’s design concept provided for flexibility to rearrange the setting, so they were free to create something special for each holiday.
“We introduced December children’s fests. Entertainers were invited, and the kids were having fun. Family time is one of our core values, so we did our best to make our establishment family-oriented. We were also the first place to hold a 1990s-themed party in our city.”
STONE was also known for family brunches. Employees set a large table and always greeted guests with a smile.
“We were often told that only our place provided with an opportunity to gather a large extended family around one table, and, most important, we were kids-friendly.”
Vladyslav notes that bringing in new guests was something more than just a matter of income. To them, the establishment was about family values, which was true with both their staff and their guests.
Each dish was impressive both in terms of presentation and taste, and the emphasis on cooking from local produce had always been in place. They recreated traditional Ukrainian recipes, offering cabbage rolls and syrnyky [Ukrainian version of cheesecakes — translator’s note] that had both unique flavor and special serving.
The best borshch in Ukraine
For instance, on the menu was the traditional Ukrainian borscht served in a special way. One serving cost UAH 135, which made for Mariupol’s most expensive borscht. However, the special serving and the secrets of the recipe were definitely worth their money.
“The idea of creating that version of Ukrainian borscht was conceived by our brand-chef Serhiy together with his co-chef Danylo. Essentially, that’s a classic recipe, but it wins you over with being served in a baked cabbage head instead of a bowl.”
The broth is cooked using the calf’s cheek. Despite the meat itself being quite tough, our chefs knew a trick or two about how to make it soft, literally melting in your mouth. They also added other traditional ingredients of borscht, like onions, carrots, chopped cabbage, potatoes, beetroots, and always some dill. The dish had been served with croutons and sour cream.
In late 2021, the Mariupol version of Ukrainian borscht was presented at Ukraine Tourism Awards 2021, where the dish got shortlisted in the top 3 dishes.
“That’s when the demand for borscht ad our establishment peaked. Some people just came in to immediately announce that they were specifically after our renowned borscht that had already been on the list of favorites for many of our guests.”
Impossible ambitions
The year 2022 has seen the upsurge of digitalization, and that was the direction the management of STONE was planning to go. They were in search of IT professionals to develop the STONE App, with the menu, the delivery options, and tools for paying the bill without getting one’s server involved.
They were actively working on another seasonal menu, and were planning to re-open the summer terrace in spring. Yet their ambitions never came to be, with their plans being ruined by Russia. As of today, only rubble remained where the citizens’ of Mariupol favorite place once stood: the building was hit by a missile and consequently burned down.
According to the former manager, as, of today, both he and the team lost their cherished resto-bar, with them still being unable to contact several of the employees.
“I can’t but keep wondering if we ever get to have a reunion. However, I’m proud to have been a part of the team, and am thankful for the appreciation of our work.”
